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¡¡¡¡Merry Bloody Christmas ¨C pass me the Prozac

¡¡¡¡By Cecilie Gamst Berg
¡¡¡¡Hong Kong people have never been known for doing things slowly or for being hesitant to pick up a new trend. But surely even they must think putting up Christmas decorations at the end of October is a little bit exaggerated?

¡¡¡¡When I saw that Christmas decoration in a shop window ¨C I think it was Santa Claus holding a bottle of beer, I had to ask the shop owner why. Why do we have to live through this nightmare that is Christmas in Hong Kong, for two whole months? He said Christmas was ¡°beautiful¡± and that he wanted to be the first to start celebrating it. Also, he hoped it would bring in more customers.

¡¡¡¡Well, he hit the nail on the head there. Christmas in Hong Kong, as indeed it is getting to be all over the world, is all about getting more customers and selling more useless crap to people who have nothing better to do than go shopping.
¡¡¡¡Here in Hong Kong, Christmas starts in earnest in the beginning of November. Every shop, every lift, every office and hotel corridor, yes even underground car parks have piped Christmas music of the worst kind and it¡¯s driving me insane as I¡¯m very sensitive to noise. I¡¯m afraid to go out sometimes, because I know I¡¯m going to be assaulted with the horrible pling-plong and bippety-bopping modern take on Christmas songs wherever I go.

¡¡¡¡I wonder who invented Christmas. It must have been a Hong Kong person, because in Hong Kong they make more out of Christmas, and more money out of Christmas, than any place I¡¯ve ever seen.

¡¡¡¡But hang on...Christmas...Christ...Oh yes of course! It was Christ who invented Christmas, wasn¡¯t it! Jesus Christ to be exact. Yes it would come as a surprise to a lot of people to hear that Christmas was actually originally meant to celebrate the birth of Jesus Christ, saviour of humanity and instigator of, well, Christianity.

¡¡¡¡Santa Claus, Christmas trees, elves, angels, tinsel, glitter and snowflakes, all that came later. The original idea behind Christmas was to celebrate the man who started our western year zero.
¡¡¡¡Of course he wasn¡¯t born in December in the year zero at all, but rather around March, or perhaps another month, in a completely different year. The truth is, nobody knows when he was born. However, to coincide with the old pagan European festivals, celebrating the winter solstice rather than God or the son of, it was considered practical to let Christmas occur on the 24/25th of December.

¡¡¡¡The Christians actually hijacked the ancient Roman and Greek ¡°pagan¡± sun festivals and made them theirs. This was the major marketing coup of the first century. Get those people who  are dancing around the streets, celebrating the sun god to celebrate our God (whom we have created in our own image) instead! Simple, practical and few overheads.

¡¡¡¡Now, although I am no Christian and in fact loath all organised religion with an astonishing force, I do appreciate that Jesus is a real historical figure. Whether he was really the Son of God, born of a virgin, is perhaps a little more doubtful. It¡¯s probably more realistic to think he was the son of a woman who wanted her fiancee not to ditch her because she¡¯d slept with another man, and so she came up with a brilliant idea of having been ¡°visited¡± by an angel and made pregnant by God himself.

¡¡¡¡What fiancee wouldn¡¯t buy that story! And so Maria¡¯s future relationship with Joseph was saved, indeed not enhanced not a little by letting him become the stepfather of the son of God.

¡¡¡¡Jesus grew up to become a smart and fascinating human being whose ideas were truly revolutionary. In a time when life was cheap and violence rampant, he preached peace, compassion and understanding. He wanted to get rid of prejudice, petty-mindedness and discrimination.

¡¡¡¡No matter if you believe all that stuff in the bible about Jesus walking on the water and waking people from the dead, there¡¯s no getting away from his powerful messages of loving your fellow human being like you love yourself and that only those who are without sin have the right to criticize others.

¡¡¡¡The bible was written by people who lived hundreds of years after Jesus and they have added things to his message that were suitable for their times, and taken other things away. A lot of it they have just made up to scare people.

¡¡¡¡But the central message of Jesus¡¯ teachings: Love, peace and hope, rings as clear today as it did 2000 years ago.

¡¡¡¡This is supposed to be the reason why we celebrate Christmas. It is to celebrate the birth and life of a prophet, a visionary and a man who changed the world. But what do we say to Jesus?
¡¡¡¡¡°Excellent dude, let¡¯s make your birthday the year Zero and celebrate it every year by turning your birthday into a billion-dollar industry!¡±

¡¡¡¡When I lived in Norway, Christmas was the time of year I hated most. We had to buy expensive presents for everybody we knew, were forced to send idiotic Christmas cards to everybody we knew and didn¡¯t know, and worst of all: Were forced to spend three days locked up in the house together with the family, with the inevitable quarrels and petty squabbles, as well as the huge, drawn out fights such a situation calls for. After a year of seeing each other at meals and hardly then, the family was now sitting around the living room table for days on end with nothing to do but eat, drink and watch tv. It was torture. I wanted to be with my friends, but they were stuck with their families in similar scenario.

¡¡¡¡I was therefore very happy when I came to Beijing in 1988 and found a world devoid of Christmas.The Christmas week could have been any week of the year in China. I went to a drunken party at the Norwegian Embassy and that was it. On Christmas Day everything was back to its normal utilatarian self. And too right ¨C after all, in December and January Chinese people would be preparing for Spring festival. A world without Christmas! That is the Chinese way! I loved it.

¡¡¡¡Or I thought that would be the Chinese way until I came to Hong Kong and found a Christmas even worse than that in Norway. Worse, because in Norway at least we had snow, darkness and a kind of solemn spirit behind all the enforced jollyness and gift-giving. We could wander around on crunching snow under the stars and think about universal truths, while the log fires were burning at home, the midnight church bells tolled and the radio played Christmas carols in their orignal form, hauntingly sung in a cathedral by a boy choir.

¡¡¡¡In Hong Kong, Christmas was a frenetic shopping nightmare with all the Christmas feeling removed. Nobody would think Christmas had anything to do with Christ, and why should it? For Hong Kong people it was just a holiday forced upon them by British imperialists, reluctantly and uncomprehending at first, perhaps; then with more and more enthusiasm. 

¡¡¡¡Now the entire city is a glittering, screaming, tinsel-filled, blink-blonk music¡¯ed hell-hole. The thing is with 25 degrees and blue (if very polluted) skies, it looks all wrong. Supermarket and drug store shop assistants stand around wearing red and white Santa Claus hats, looking pained. And so they should; it¡¯s the middle of November.

¡¡¡¡Hour after hour they¡¯re forced to stand there listening to the same reel of horrible music playing over and over again; as a customer at least I can get out of there as soon as I¡¯ve paid. Surely listening to this awful noise would constitute torture, or at least sickness-inducing work conditions?

¡¡¡¡After 1997 I was hoping that we would lose the ludicrous spectacle that is Christmas, with every skyscraper in the city decorated in garish colours with ¡°cute¡± motifs of Santa Claus, (who lives in Norway by the way; NOT Finland) reindeer, bells and Christmas trees and the odd Hello Kitty thrown in, as well as Disney figures festively decked out in various hues of red and green.

¡¡¡¡I was hoping that the Chinese government would put its foot down, calling Christmas an imperialist Western folly that weakens and corrupts youth. But no, since 1997 things have actually got even worse. Christmas starts one week earlier every year ¨C if it carries on like this we¡¯ll be hearing the damned Christmas songs played just after Easter!

¡¡¡¡And don¡¯t get me started on Easter. Why the hell do we have to celebrate that? Do Hong Kong people, in general, really care about Jesus being hammered on a cross and left to die give or take 2000 years ago? And anyway, if these holidays are Christian holidays that we must follow, how come Christmas is at the same time every year but Easter pops up at completely different times from year to year, and when you least expect it?

¡¡¡¡Of course Easter is, like Christmas, just a hollow excuse to get people out of their houses to spend spend spend.    

¡¡¡¡Now we have the ridiculous situation where, no sooner have we taken down the Christmas decorations for the annual twenty minutes after having celebrated long and hard Christmas and New Year¡¯s Eve, before we immediately start on Spring Festival, or Chinese New Year (ß"Äê) as we call it. It¡¯s interesting to note that while mainlanders get a month off during Spring Festival, Hong Kong people are getting fewer and fewer days off every year and are now down, I believe, to zero.

¡¡¡¡For example, when I came to Hong Kong 15 years ago, the supermarkets were closed for three days during this festival. Now they are open for the duration, and more or less 24 hours a day¡­
¡¡¡¡Anyway, the Spring Festival lasts well into February, and then it¡¯s time for Easter. That¡¯s about six months of the year taken up with window displays, music and neon decorations on buildings.

¡¡¡¡In addition we have Ching Ming, July 1st to celebrate the handover, that¡¯s a week gone, as well as October 1st to celebrate China¡¯s national day, another week, then there¡¯s the Yeung Chung festival, the Hungry Ghost  festival¡­The whole year is taken up with festivals, which here in Hong Kong means that most foreigners take a week off work every time and go away on holiday.

¡¡¡¡That is good for them but terrible for me, because when I can¡¯t teach Cantonese to foreigners I have no income.

¡¡¡¡But back to Christmas ¨C the year before last I¡¯d  had enough of ultra-commercial Christmas in Hong Kong and got on the train heading for Sichuan province. But what do you know? Christmas has come to China, officially a non-Christian country, too.

¡¡¡¡The little town of Xichang was fully decked out in Christmas decorations. The staff in the little hotel I stayed in were all dressed in garish costumes, and in reception a gigantic blow-up plastic model of Santa Claus stood benevolently receiving guests, surrounded by fake Christmas presents.

¡¡¡¡Last year I tried again. I wanted to find a place without Christmas! Back on the train I went, this time to the inner and upper reaches of Guangdong province.I didn¡¯t realise it would be absolutely freezing, and I had no idea it would be a Christmas nightmare. With not enough clothes I sat shivering in the hotel room on Christmas Eve, listening to ¡°Jingle Bells¡± with disco-rhytm, blaring through the streets where people dressed as Santa Claus stood outside every shop, handing out sweets to bemused people. Perhaps this was their first encounter with Christmas the Hong Kong way.

¡¡¡¡Or Christmas the global way, rather. For Christmas has lost any pretence of being about Christ. Indeed in the United States, ever fearful of being politically incorrect and afraid of upsetting religious groups, the don¡¯t even call it ¡°Christmas¡± anymore. ¡°Holiday¡± it¡¯s become over the last few years, and ¡°Merry Christmas¡± has turned into ¡°Happy Holidays.¡±

¡¡¡¡Apart from calling it different things: Christmas is the same all over the world; a mad rush to buy more and more things nobody needs, heart-rendingly ugly Christmas decorations seemingly put together by drunken four-year olds, and the infernal music playing round the clock. If Jesus indeed came back, as the Christians keep going on about, he¡¯d be forced to stand in the supermarket, wrapped in tinsel and flashing lights and wearing a Santa Claus hat, going ¡°Happy Holidays everybody!¡±

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